Siempre Frío en Asturias

Last night Stef got a call from Luz-Dary, who now lives in Cangas del Narcea near her daughter, Jessica. They celebrated Luz-Dary’s birthday in Oviedo and somehow missed the bus back. So Stef and I headed out at 10 pm to drive an hour and a half to Oviedo, then an hour to Cangas, then a half hour back to Pola. We got back a little after 1:30 am.

On the way back Luz-Dary asked if I remembered playing games in the kitchen and if we still played. I said, “No. Mucho trabajo por los peregrinos. Cocino, limpio, duermo. Y repito.” And that’s why I haven’t been posting. I’ve been cooking for fifteen people. And helping clean and do laundry and…

Today there was a concert in the square. The video of couples dancing won’t upload even though I’m on WiFi. I’ll try again later.

Finally downloaded

I left early so I could make lunch, but not as early as Ren & Kana. Stef and Yolanda stayed till the end. I made a lentil stew which apparently didn’t float Ren’s boat; they made themselves a quesadilla instead. But they politely said, “I’m not really hungry,” instead of “That looks awful.” (It didn’t, btw. But that’s okay; they don’t have to like everything I cook.)

Tonight Kana is making Japanese food (she’s Japanese) and there are only two pilgrims. So we basically have a night off and I’m missing it.

Tonight I am in Tineo, once again staying at the Palacio de Meras. I’m traveling to Villaviciosa tomorrow to visit Montse for her birthday. And I am eating meat!

I haven’t eaten meat in a week

That’s a chicken burger. I almost ate on the terrace across the street instead of the hotel bar, but there’s a chill in the air. I refuse to be cold before I have to be!

Tomorrow I will catch the bus to Oviedo then to Villaviciosa. I don’t know where Montse’s place is, but I’m sure I can find it. I’m looking forward to seeing her.

My room isn’t as nice as last time, but it has the most important thing.

Bathtub!

It is no longer 95 here. Right now it is 67, and it will get down to 60. Stef still has some of the clothes I left, which I hope will include the black turtleneck. If it’s here, I’m wearing it to El Serbal.

I tried to fit everything for this trip into a small bag, which unfortunately could not accommodate my ball. It’s okay. I brought my computer and I’ll check into work and maybe watch some TV. And of course, enjoy the bathtub.

So now you guys are caught up. Laters.

I Haven’t Forgotten Y’all; I Promise

I wrote a post the other day, but it kept telling me it was autosaving. It wouldn’t let me save a draft, or publish, or anything. I finally sacrificed everything thing I wrote and am starting over.

Like last time, I’m doing a lot of cooking. However, this time it is for the pilgrims also. Tonight’s dinner was for ten people! Fifteen counting the volunteers, but I ended up not cooking for them. Not because I didn’t want to, but because by the time we had made enough food for the pilgrims there wasn’t enough for us. Except for dessert.

Like all people with gardens in the summer, Stef has an overabundance of zucchini. His have gotten bigger than any zucchini I have ever seen, however.

That’s not even one of the biggest

I made zucchini brownies the other night, and tonight was zucchini dessert squares. You cook the zucchini in lemon juice with sugar and add cinnamon and nutmeg, then layer it between a patted firm base and a crumbly top. The result tastes a lot like an apple crisp. When pre-baking the lower crust, I burnt it and had to scrape part of it out. I decided the part with no bottom crust was better. The rest of the dinner was pasta with red sauce and mushrooms and a green bean, red pepper, and cucumber salad the pilgrims obviously didn’t care for. I also used the vegetable peeler to turn one of the zucchinis into zoodles.

We had to cook more pasta for us, and Sophia made a mushroom sauce that was really delicious. And of course there was enough dessert for us, but that crumble REALLY needed ice cream.

The day before yesterday Sophia and Anika and I took a walk. Anika left yesterday and Ren arrived. They are also a voice major, but they actually performed opera for awhile.

Sophia and Anika
Anika and Sophia

I haven’t yet gotten into a routine for posting because we are so busy. After we booked our ten, which is our maximum, Stef fielded at least that many calls asking for a place to stay. Yesterday we had three pilgrims, and the day before, one. But I have been told most of Spain takes their holidays the first two weeks of August, and that is why we are so busy.

For the record, it is NOT hot here anymore. I have even been a little chilly a few times. So I may have to do the clothes shopping I always planned on a little early. Stef says some of the clothes I left are still here. I may try to find them in a few days.

On to Pola de Allande

Yesterday I discovered that the $30 I had taken out in the US was in my bag, so I stopped and changed it. ($30 in, 21 euros out, what a deal! 😟) However, thank goodness I did because the money I transferred to my Schwab card hasn’t shown up yet, and I would have found myself schlepping my backpack and carryon for the 45 minute walk to the bus station if I hadn’t.

As it was I took a nice taxi. I had wondered where to get one, but when I went out yesterday to the ATM to get the money that wasn’t available, I saw a lot of taxis stopped in a circular area. It was less than a quarter mile from my hotel. I’m telling you guys, God takes care of me. Not sure why, but he does.

I had a moment of panic when I thought I was in the wrong bus station; I knew I wasn’t but you know how fear can sometimes be totally irrational. Information assured me I was in the right place and told me my platform.

Now I am sitting in my nice bus waiting to head out.

You have to mask on the bus; that’s why it’s hanging from my ear

I just witnessed a “vigorous discussion” over a seat. That wasn’t unexpected. What was unexpected was that nobody ended up sitting there. Both disputed seats, empty. Why the discussion then?

The bus from Madrid was 30 minutes late, causing me to miss my connection. Fortunately with my international plan I could let Stef know so he didn’t waste time in Cangas. I have an hour to kill in the bus station in Oviedo. I could feed the pigeons, I guess.

I didn’t have any food out

However this sandwich has been waiting for me for six hours. Time to put it out of its misery.

The hat looks more Mexican than Spanish

There were some crumbs left, so the pigeon got some

The trip was uneventful. Many of the people I knew are gone: Eugenia, Luz-Dary, and of course Carlos, Montse, and Veronica. Dinner was with the pilgrims, a group of four young Italian men. All handsome. All doctors.

I felt like I was in a rom-com, and any minute this Jewish-sounding voice was going to come out of me saying, “Let me tell ya about my doytah; she’s a noice goil, a chef, even…

Relax, Sarah, I didn’t say anything. You have a boyfriend anyway.

We sat by the fire and caught up on each other’s lives; at least Stef is caught up on mine. And now I’m going to sleep. Night, Mom, I’ll call tomorrow.

Toledo

I’m trying to post only once a day, as I don’t want to overload you guys. Since yesterday was busking, today will include last night’s dinner. OMG, y’all.

I was wandering around with my groceries, trying to decide on a place, when a waiter invited me to sit and have a drink. I ordered a tinto verano (It was HUGE) that came with slices of Parmesan cheese. (They were on the empty plate.) I sat awhile, then ordered a salad.

Endive, radicchio, goat cheese, caramelizad pears, walnuts, pineapple…oh!…It was sweet, salty, crunchy, smooth…all the complexity of tastes I love. Gaze upon it.

One of the best salads I ever had

I didn’t take a picture of the fried Gouda cheese sticks I got at McDonald’s, but I did take a selfie with my mango ice cream.

Breakfast of Champions! Tourist champions. And it was more like lunch.

Yesterday was about getting my phone sorted out (can’t get a Spanish SIM card till my contract is up in fourteen months. HOWEVER, my phone has dual chip capability, so when it is I can get a Spanish SIM card and have a US number and a Spanish one, all in the same phone) and my bus tickets. I now have a discounted international plan with Verizon (three months for the price of two,) and tickets to Cangas del Narcea, where Stef will pick me up.

I ate too much for my Ambien to work well last night, so I’m a little short on sleep, but I’m excited about today. Mom, Aaron, this is what your birthday money bought me.

Here I am waiting on the bus to Toledo.

Toledo is one of the most ancient cities in Spain, and one in which Christians, Jews, and Muslims have co-existed for almost 1,000 years. Witness the Catholic church with Muslim-influenced architecture.

The terrain around the city is quite hilly, as you can see here.

I had forgotten that Toledo is known for its sword-making. We stopped at a factory where they gave a small demonstration .

Sword Factory

Z, let me show you the souvenir you aren’t getting.

There is a decorative technique called Damascene, which involves working gold thread into other metals.

Mom & Sarah, you might be getting some.

This might surprise you, unless you know that the armor for The Lord of the Rings was made here in Toledo. I didn’t till today.

I was really tempted by the LOTR jewelry, but I was pretty sure I couldn’t afford it.

Now I’m sitting sipping more tinto verano (literally “summer wine.” It’s red wine and a citrus soda) trying to decide between a pork bocadillo and tortilla.

I got neither. The kitchen wasn’t open. But the waitress gave me this.

As I sat sipping I realized my battery was at 22%. Not enough for blogging and pictures and navigation. So blogging went away first. Then pictures, because you guys know, navigation is THE MOST IMPORTANT THING.

I did not want the thing I thought happened at the sword factory…

Missing bus!

…to happen in reality.

So I didn’t tour any of the sites on my own, like the cathedral, mosque, or synagogue. I may do them another time. Instead I did this!

I don’t think this picture could be more unflattering if it tried

I talked with the woman in front of me, as best we could with each of our limited languages, and I took a video of her. So we took a picture together.

Compañeras

I did finally get something to eat.

I don’t remember what it was called. Tasted good, though

There is a lot of busking in Spain. I actually saw this guy walking in, but I had to keep up with the tour.

Spanish blues

I was about out of battery, but I knew how to get to the bus from there so I risked a few seconds.

I took this video first.

After I found the bus (or more accurately, where it was going to be) I went back in town and got a Coke Zero and some water from McDonald’s and used their facilities. My phone was completely dead by that point so I got to the meeting place way early. I was not missing that bus!

In that same spirit, I got off the bus at the first stop, Gran Via, instead of the second stop, Fountain of Neptune, where I got on. I knew how to get back to my hotel from the Gran Via. I wasn’t so sure about the fountain.

When I got back the maid had emptied the trash and given me clean towels. I’ve always been here when she’s done her cleaning before. Now I’m debating between going out or eating the pasta salad I bought yesterday. I think the salad’s gonna win.

It did

Busking

I figured out why no videos were uploading. I had maxed out my free space. Since I want to keep posting, I bought the next level up. I figure it will take me a year or so to max it out. It took me five years the last time. But now my address has changed. WordPress is no longer at the end. Just “Travelsandadventureswithjane.com” The old address still works though; I tested it.

Reloaded

And no, I don’t know why I didn’t get the opera singers’ faces. I thought I had. I also don’t know why the photo of Mickey Mouse is so quick. I’m still a newbie with the editing program I got.

I didn’t do a whole lot today, but tomorrow I’m going to Toledo. Pictures and videos will ensue, of course.

First Full Day in Madrid

Sorry for not posting yesterday, guys. With all the delays I ended up traveling just over 24 hours, and I didn’t really sleep on the plane. I did manage to stay up until after 9:00 p.m. so today, after sleeping almost twelve hours, I feel pretty normal.

I haven’t gotten a lot done today. I laid in bed and played on my phone, then did some exercises. I didn’t get out till after 1:00 p.m. I decided to go to the San Miguel Market for lunch. I spent 35 Euros! Here are the pictures.

The market used to be a church

The San Miguel Market is famous for having tapas from all over Spain. Some I did not try because the cost was too much (I’m looking at you, fourteen euro lobster taco) But I got to try a lot of things.

Shrimp on toast w white wine
Mozzarella w tomato jam (Doesn’t look bland, does it? It was.)
Empanada w Argentina beef (White Sangria not pictured)
Chicken curry taco w mango
Parmesan cheese w jam and a blueberry
Grilled beef w grilled pepper and a sausage
Mixed fruit
Churros w cinnamon sugar

On the way I passed a shop where I can get a Spanish SIM card, but I have to talk to Verizon about switching my current card to a digital one so I can get a physical card for Spain. Then I will be able to have a Spanish number and a US number on the same phone. And I will able to find myself again if I get lost. Like I did today.

You guys knew I would.

Although a Spanish SIM card wouldn’t have helped me today, because today my phone died. I spent $10 on a travel pass yesterday, and $10 more today, so I actually had a map until the phone went kaput. But while the card won’t solve power problems, it was really inconvenient for my phone to only work on WIFI last time. I don’t want that this time. I’ll let you guys know how it all works out tomorrow.

After wine and wandering around in the sun for an extra hour, I was so depleted I took a nap when I finally found my hostel. I got out again around 7:00 p.m. I walked to a hat store that was supposed to close at 8:00 p.m. but they were finishing up the people already in there and not letting anyone new in. So instead I went grocery shopping, because my room, small though it is, has a refrigerator.

Salad, yogurt, sandwich w ham salad, Coke Zero and Caffeine-free Coke Zero

All of that plus a bottle of caffeine-free Coke Zero was less than eleven euros. Tomorrow I hope to get a hat and my phone sorted out, and Sunday I hope to take a tour to Toledo. I will also try and visit one of the gardens tomorrow if I can take the heat. I’ll probably be okay if I don’t drink wine.

Back to Spain

Well, guys, I’m off again.

Bergstrom Airport

I’m sitting outside my gate waiting for my flight, which is in six hours. I was supposed to fly out at 2:40 p.m. but the flight was delayed to 3:49 p.m. That would have meant missing my connection in Dallas. So I was changed to a different flight, which will leave here at 6:44 p.m. and Dallas at 9:25 p.m. I will get to Madrid at 2 p.m. on the 28th. Thank God I have Ambien.

Of course, since this is ME, there was a bobble. (And no, it did not involve getting lost.) Sarah and I leave a half hour later than we mean to, but I still have 3.5 hours after I arrive so I’m fine. At the airport I get out and she says, “Do you have everything?” Thinking in terms of Brenham, I say, “Well, if I don’t I’m screwed.” She hands me some disposable masks I want just in case and I stuff them in my back pocket. Where I usually put my cell phone.

You guys see where I’m going with this.

We hug goodbye, I walk through the doors, and realize what I’ve done. I borrow a stranger’s phone and call her number, which I fortunately know. No answer. Then I call myself, thinking it’ll show up in the car display.

My message instantly reminds me I silence unknown callers.

So I call Mom. I actually know her number too. Both of them. ( Don’t be too impressed; the amount of phone numbers I’ve memorized is less than ten.) No answer. By this time I’ve figured out what having my Apple Watch MEANS, so I thank the man, give him back his phone and call Mom again. This time she answers. She tells me she called me and asked Sarah why she was answering my phone, but Sarah had assumed she was still close enough to me for the car to pick me up. She calls Sarah to tell her to turn around. Sarah comes back and gives me my phone.

I consider self-checking in, but thank goodness I don’t because it takes the agent a good ten minutes to get me sorted out. In the meantime, the AirTag Mom bought for my backpack, that I could have SWORN I set up last night, isn’t showing up on my list of devices. I’m trying to pair and it just won’t. So I check the bag knowing I’m just going to have to take its arrival on faith.

I’m in the security line when I realize it appears under “Items” and not “Devices.” My phone then proceeds to tell me my backpack and I are not together, but it was last at the Barbara Jordan Airport (apparently there was a name change?) until I tell it to stop.

Going through security I have to divest myself of hiking boots, cell phone, watch, money belt, pocket contents, and scarf as well as unpack my laptop. I feel like the poster child for “How Not to Get through TSA Checks Quickly.”

But I will need the boots (brought the poles this time, too) and they are big and heavy to pack. Scarves are versatile, and I feel better when my laptop is with me. Not to mention, as I just realized, I can do some work and make up some hours during this downtime. So I just moved to prime gate real estate, although the most uncomfortable.

Know why it’s so worn?
Here’s why!

I need to pee, but I’m not moving till it’s an emergency.

Laters!

My hostel is near the City Center. I wandered around getting my bearings but mostly just trying to stay up till at least 9:00 p.m. Here was dinner.

These were good but not what I expected. Drink is not Sangria but Tinto Verano

One Stage of the Camino Primitivo

After a hike for Veronica’s birthday on Saturday, and two small walks on Sunday (one w Eugenia, the other w Luz-Dary and Toby,) Stef wanted to do a REALLY long (15 kilometers, full stage of the camino long) on Monday. I foolishly agreed.

Eugenia in love with a tree

OMG, y’all. I know when I’m getting tired on a hike because my boots start slipping. I was slipping 20 minutes in. I saw the words “Llano de Escaleras” on the map at the beginning, and I thought, “ Stairs? Stairs in the mountains?”

Stairs! In the mountains!

There were a lot of these, both up and down. I started feeling lightheaded when I walked them. At first just my legs wobbled, but then it became my whole body.

Stef said something about being careful because the wood on the stairs is sometimes bad, and later he said, “Don’t walk like an elephant!” It took a lot for me not to reply, “ Stef, I am walking in the only way I CAN walk.”

I held on to that rope
Stef said this was so much better than the Frances
I said it depends on what you want. I did not want this.
Signposts on the trails still confuse me. AS (short for Asturias) 1? Really? More like GT (Goat Trail) 1!

After over 3 hours of walking, we ate the sandwiches we bought. Then began walking the 12 kilometers back to the car.

We were on the road for awhile then got back on the trail. As we were descending, it started to rain, a fine rain that gradually soaked through my shirt. I didn’t have my rain jacket and I didn’t want to put on my hoodie because I wanted it warm and dry when I got into the car.

Stef wasn’t sure of the path; he’d never traveled it before. So we went the wrong way a couple of times. The clouds were obscuring the view below and nobody could get cell reception. We were getting wetter and wetter and colder and colder.

I was really thirsty but I couldn’t stop for water. I would have gotten too far from the others (they were having to wait sometimes as it was) and the only thing keeping me warm was movement. Standing still in the rain just wasn’t a good idea. But I was so desperate I began sucking the water out of my sleeves, which were so sodden, especially around the wrists, that I could do that.

Just like when I was on the Frances outside Grañon, we were not in the red but we were in the yellow. We were cold and wet, unsure of our path, and darkness was coming. I heard Eugenia say something about “la noche.”

Stef wanted to head over a CLIFF ( okay, it wasn’t a cliff but it was a pretty steep drop off) and scramble through the brush to the path we could see below. I said if we are doing that, I’m putting my phone ( dead which is why I don’t have pictures) and glasses ( so covered in rain they were useless) in my pack, and had Eugenia do that for me.

Fortunately Stef decided I wasn’t equal to brush scrambling, which I wasn’t, and finally found a path down. We got to a small village and sheltered in a barn while Eugenia asked for directions. While waiting, the owner of the barn saw us and offered to drive us to our car. Her name was Angela. And she was.

I decided then I REALLY dislike the mountains. As much as I want to see Stef and the others again, it will be awhile and it won’t be as long. I hesitate to say I hate any part of God’s creation, but the mountains come close.

Luz-Dary and Toby

Luz-Dary is from Columbia, but she and her dog Toby live in Pola de Allande. She is an interesting person. She wrote a book, and made sure to tell me it had “ mucho sexo.”

Stef and I went to visit and eat Columbian empanadas. She and Toby like to walk in the forest so we did that afterwards. Toby spent the whole time fetching sticks.

Cute as Toby’s butt is, his face is cuter
C’mon Toby, look at the camera
You can do it
Toby: “Can’t you see I’m busy right now? Stick!”

Toby: “Stick.”