Siempre Frío en Asturias

Last night Stef got a call from Luz-Dary, who now lives in Cangas del Narcea near her daughter, Jessica. They celebrated Luz-Dary’s birthday in Oviedo and somehow missed the bus back. So Stef and I headed out at 10 pm to drive an hour and a half to Oviedo, then an hour to Cangas, then a half hour back to Pola. We got back a little after 1:30 am.

On the way back Luz-Dary asked if I remembered playing games in the kitchen and if we still played. I said, “No. Mucho trabajo por los peregrinos. Cocino, limpio, duermo. Y repito.” And that’s why I haven’t been posting. I’ve been cooking for fifteen people. And helping clean and do laundry and…

Today there was a concert in the square. The video of couples dancing won’t upload even though I’m on WiFi. I’ll try again later.

Finally downloaded

I left early so I could make lunch, but not as early as Ren & Kana. Stef and Yolanda stayed till the end. I made a lentil stew which apparently didn’t float Ren’s boat; they made themselves a quesadilla instead. But they politely said, “I’m not really hungry,” instead of “That looks awful.” (It didn’t, btw. But that’s okay; they don’t have to like everything I cook.)

Tonight Kana is making Japanese food (she’s Japanese) and there are only two pilgrims. So we basically have a night off and I’m missing it.

Tonight I am in Tineo, once again staying at the Palacio de Meras. I’m traveling to Villaviciosa tomorrow to visit Montse for her birthday. And I am eating meat!

I haven’t eaten meat in a week

That’s a chicken burger. I almost ate on the terrace across the street instead of the hotel bar, but there’s a chill in the air. I refuse to be cold before I have to be!

Tomorrow I will catch the bus to Oviedo then to Villaviciosa. I don’t know where Montse’s place is, but I’m sure I can find it. I’m looking forward to seeing her.

My room isn’t as nice as last time, but it has the most important thing.

Bathtub!

It is no longer 95 here. Right now it is 67, and it will get down to 60. Stef still has some of the clothes I left, which I hope will include the black turtleneck. If it’s here, I’m wearing it to El Serbal.

I tried to fit everything for this trip into a small bag, which unfortunately could not accommodate my ball. It’s okay. I brought my computer and I’ll check into work and maybe watch some TV. And of course, enjoy the bathtub.

So now you guys are caught up. Laters.

I Haven’t Forgotten Y’all; I Promise

I wrote a post the other day, but it kept telling me it was autosaving. It wouldn’t let me save a draft, or publish, or anything. I finally sacrificed everything thing I wrote and am starting over.

Like last time, I’m doing a lot of cooking. However, this time it is for the pilgrims also. Tonight’s dinner was for ten people! Fifteen counting the volunteers, but I ended up not cooking for them. Not because I didn’t want to, but because by the time we had made enough food for the pilgrims there wasn’t enough for us. Except for dessert.

Like all people with gardens in the summer, Stef has an overabundance of zucchini. His have gotten bigger than any zucchini I have ever seen, however.

That’s not even one of the biggest

I made zucchini brownies the other night, and tonight was zucchini dessert squares. You cook the zucchini in lemon juice with sugar and add cinnamon and nutmeg, then layer it between a patted firm base and a crumbly top. The result tastes a lot like an apple crisp. When pre-baking the lower crust, I burnt it and had to scrape part of it out. I decided the part with no bottom crust was better. The rest of the dinner was pasta with red sauce and mushrooms and a green bean, red pepper, and cucumber salad the pilgrims obviously didn’t care for. I also used the vegetable peeler to turn one of the zucchinis into zoodles.

We had to cook more pasta for us, and Sophia made a mushroom sauce that was really delicious. And of course there was enough dessert for us, but that crumble REALLY needed ice cream.

The day before yesterday Sophia and Anika and I took a walk. Anika left yesterday and Ren arrived. They are also a voice major, but they actually performed opera for awhile.

Sophia and Anika
Anika and Sophia

I haven’t yet gotten into a routine for posting because we are so busy. After we booked our ten, which is our maximum, Stef fielded at least that many calls asking for a place to stay. Yesterday we had three pilgrims, and the day before, one. But I have been told most of Spain takes their holidays the first two weeks of August, and that is why we are so busy.

For the record, it is NOT hot here anymore. I have even been a little chilly a few times. So I may have to do the clothes shopping I always planned on a little early. Stef says some of the clothes I left are still here. I may try to find them in a few days.

On to Pola de Allande

Yesterday I discovered that the $30 I had taken out in the US was in my bag, so I stopped and changed it. ($30 in, 21 euros out, what a deal! 😟) However, thank goodness I did because the money I transferred to my Schwab card hasn’t shown up yet, and I would have found myself schlepping my backpack and carryon for the 45 minute walk to the bus station if I hadn’t.

As it was I took a nice taxi. I had wondered where to get one, but when I went out yesterday to the ATM to get the money that wasn’t available, I saw a lot of taxis stopped in a circular area. It was less than a quarter mile from my hotel. I’m telling you guys, God takes care of me. Not sure why, but he does.

I had a moment of panic when I thought I was in the wrong bus station; I knew I wasn’t but you know how fear can sometimes be totally irrational. Information assured me I was in the right place and told me my platform.

Now I am sitting in my nice bus waiting to head out.

You have to mask on the bus; that’s why it’s hanging from my ear

I just witnessed a “vigorous discussion” over a seat. That wasn’t unexpected. What was unexpected was that nobody ended up sitting there. Both disputed seats, empty. Why the discussion then?

The bus from Madrid was 30 minutes late, causing me to miss my connection. Fortunately with my international plan I could let Stef know so he didn’t waste time in Cangas. I have an hour to kill in the bus station in Oviedo. I could feed the pigeons, I guess.

I didn’t have any food out

However this sandwich has been waiting for me for six hours. Time to put it out of its misery.

The hat looks more Mexican than Spanish

There were some crumbs left, so the pigeon got some

The trip was uneventful. Many of the people I knew are gone: Eugenia, Luz-Dary, and of course Carlos, Montse, and Veronica. Dinner was with the pilgrims, a group of four young Italian men. All handsome. All doctors.

I felt like I was in a rom-com, and any minute this Jewish-sounding voice was going to come out of me saying, “Let me tell ya about my doytah; she’s a noice goil, a chef, even…

Relax, Sarah, I didn’t say anything. You have a boyfriend anyway.

We sat by the fire and caught up on each other’s lives; at least Stef is caught up on mine. And now I’m going to sleep. Night, Mom, I’ll call tomorrow.

Toledo

I’m trying to post only once a day, as I don’t want to overload you guys. Since yesterday was busking, today will include last night’s dinner. OMG, y’all.

I was wandering around with my groceries, trying to decide on a place, when a waiter invited me to sit and have a drink. I ordered a tinto verano (It was HUGE) that came with slices of Parmesan cheese. (They were on the empty plate.) I sat awhile, then ordered a salad.

Endive, radicchio, goat cheese, caramelizad pears, walnuts, pineapple…oh!…It was sweet, salty, crunchy, smooth…all the complexity of tastes I love. Gaze upon it.

One of the best salads I ever had

I didn’t take a picture of the fried Gouda cheese sticks I got at McDonald’s, but I did take a selfie with my mango ice cream.

Breakfast of Champions! Tourist champions. And it was more like lunch.

Yesterday was about getting my phone sorted out (can’t get a Spanish SIM card till my contract is up in fourteen months. HOWEVER, my phone has dual chip capability, so when it is I can get a Spanish SIM card and have a US number and a Spanish one, all in the same phone) and my bus tickets. I now have a discounted international plan with Verizon (three months for the price of two,) and tickets to Cangas del Narcea, where Stef will pick me up.

I ate too much for my Ambien to work well last night, so I’m a little short on sleep, but I’m excited about today. Mom, Aaron, this is what your birthday money bought me.

Here I am waiting on the bus to Toledo.

Toledo is one of the most ancient cities in Spain, and one in which Christians, Jews, and Muslims have co-existed for almost 1,000 years. Witness the Catholic church with Muslim-influenced architecture.

The terrain around the city is quite hilly, as you can see here.

I had forgotten that Toledo is known for its sword-making. We stopped at a factory where they gave a small demonstration .

Sword Factory

Z, let me show you the souvenir you aren’t getting.

There is a decorative technique called Damascene, which involves working gold thread into other metals.

Mom & Sarah, you might be getting some.

This might surprise you, unless you know that the armor for The Lord of the Rings was made here in Toledo. I didn’t till today.

I was really tempted by the LOTR jewelry, but I was pretty sure I couldn’t afford it.

Now I’m sitting sipping more tinto verano (literally “summer wine.” It’s red wine and a citrus soda) trying to decide between a pork bocadillo and tortilla.

I got neither. The kitchen wasn’t open. But the waitress gave me this.

As I sat sipping I realized my battery was at 22%. Not enough for blogging and pictures and navigation. So blogging went away first. Then pictures, because you guys know, navigation is THE MOST IMPORTANT THING.

I did not want the thing I thought happened at the sword factory…

Missing bus!

…to happen in reality.

So I didn’t tour any of the sites on my own, like the cathedral, mosque, or synagogue. I may do them another time. Instead I did this!

I don’t think this picture could be more unflattering if it tried

I talked with the woman in front of me, as best we could with each of our limited languages, and I took a video of her. So we took a picture together.

Compañeras

I did finally get something to eat.

I don’t remember what it was called. Tasted good, though

There is a lot of busking in Spain. I actually saw this guy walking in, but I had to keep up with the tour.

Spanish blues

I was about out of battery, but I knew how to get to the bus from there so I risked a few seconds.

I took this video first.

After I found the bus (or more accurately, where it was going to be) I went back in town and got a Coke Zero and some water from McDonald’s and used their facilities. My phone was completely dead by that point so I got to the meeting place way early. I was not missing that bus!

In that same spirit, I got off the bus at the first stop, Gran Via, instead of the second stop, Fountain of Neptune, where I got on. I knew how to get back to my hotel from the Gran Via. I wasn’t so sure about the fountain.

When I got back the maid had emptied the trash and given me clean towels. I’ve always been here when she’s done her cleaning before. Now I’m debating between going out or eating the pasta salad I bought yesterday. I think the salad’s gonna win.

It did

Busking

I figured out why no videos were uploading. I had maxed out my free space. Since I want to keep posting, I bought the next level up. I figure it will take me a year or so to max it out. It took me five years the last time. But now my address has changed. WordPress is no longer at the end. Just “Travelsandadventureswithjane.com” The old address still works though; I tested it.

Reloaded

And no, I don’t know why I didn’t get the opera singers’ faces. I thought I had. I also don’t know why the photo of Mickey Mouse is so quick. I’m still a newbie with the editing program I got.

I didn’t do a whole lot today, but tomorrow I’m going to Toledo. Pictures and videos will ensue, of course.

First Full Day in Madrid

Sorry for not posting yesterday, guys. With all the delays I ended up traveling just over 24 hours, and I didn’t really sleep on the plane. I did manage to stay up until after 9:00 p.m. so today, after sleeping almost twelve hours, I feel pretty normal.

I haven’t gotten a lot done today. I laid in bed and played on my phone, then did some exercises. I didn’t get out till after 1:00 p.m. I decided to go to the San Miguel Market for lunch. I spent 35 Euros! Here are the pictures.

The market used to be a church

The San Miguel Market is famous for having tapas from all over Spain. Some I did not try because the cost was too much (I’m looking at you, fourteen euro lobster taco) But I got to try a lot of things.

Shrimp on toast w white wine
Mozzarella w tomato jam (Doesn’t look bland, does it? It was.)
Empanada w Argentina beef (White Sangria not pictured)
Chicken curry taco w mango
Parmesan cheese w jam and a blueberry
Grilled beef w grilled pepper and a sausage
Mixed fruit
Churros w cinnamon sugar

On the way I passed a shop where I can get a Spanish SIM card, but I have to talk to Verizon about switching my current card to a digital one so I can get a physical card for Spain. Then I will be able to have a Spanish number and a US number on the same phone. And I will able to find myself again if I get lost. Like I did today.

You guys knew I would.

Although a Spanish SIM card wouldn’t have helped me today, because today my phone died. I spent $10 on a travel pass yesterday, and $10 more today, so I actually had a map until the phone went kaput. But while the card won’t solve power problems, it was really inconvenient for my phone to only work on WIFI last time. I don’t want that this time. I’ll let you guys know how it all works out tomorrow.

After wine and wandering around in the sun for an extra hour, I was so depleted I took a nap when I finally found my hostel. I got out again around 7:00 p.m. I walked to a hat store that was supposed to close at 8:00 p.m. but they were finishing up the people already in there and not letting anyone new in. So instead I went grocery shopping, because my room, small though it is, has a refrigerator.

Salad, yogurt, sandwich w ham salad, Coke Zero and Caffeine-free Coke Zero

All of that plus a bottle of caffeine-free Coke Zero was less than eleven euros. Tomorrow I hope to get a hat and my phone sorted out, and Sunday I hope to take a tour to Toledo. I will also try and visit one of the gardens tomorrow if I can take the heat. I’ll probably be okay if I don’t drink wine.

Back to Spain

Well, guys, I’m off again.

Bergstrom Airport

I’m sitting outside my gate waiting for my flight, which is in six hours. I was supposed to fly out at 2:40 p.m. but the flight was delayed to 3:49 p.m. That would have meant missing my connection in Dallas. So I was changed to a different flight, which will leave here at 6:44 p.m. and Dallas at 9:25 p.m. I will get to Madrid at 2 p.m. on the 28th. Thank God I have Ambien.

Of course, since this is ME, there was a bobble. (And no, it did not involve getting lost.) Sarah and I leave a half hour later than we mean to, but I still have 3.5 hours after I arrive so I’m fine. At the airport I get out and she says, “Do you have everything?” Thinking in terms of Brenham, I say, “Well, if I don’t I’m screwed.” She hands me some disposable masks I want just in case and I stuff them in my back pocket. Where I usually put my cell phone.

You guys see where I’m going with this.

We hug goodbye, I walk through the doors, and realize what I’ve done. I borrow a stranger’s phone and call her number, which I fortunately know. No answer. Then I call myself, thinking it’ll show up in the car display.

My message instantly reminds me I silence unknown callers.

So I call Mom. I actually know her number too. Both of them. ( Don’t be too impressed; the amount of phone numbers I’ve memorized is less than ten.) No answer. By this time I’ve figured out what having my Apple Watch MEANS, so I thank the man, give him back his phone and call Mom again. This time she answers. She tells me she called me and asked Sarah why she was answering my phone, but Sarah had assumed she was still close enough to me for the car to pick me up. She calls Sarah to tell her to turn around. Sarah comes back and gives me my phone.

I consider self-checking in, but thank goodness I don’t because it takes the agent a good ten minutes to get me sorted out. In the meantime, the AirTag Mom bought for my backpack, that I could have SWORN I set up last night, isn’t showing up on my list of devices. I’m trying to pair and it just won’t. So I check the bag knowing I’m just going to have to take its arrival on faith.

I’m in the security line when I realize it appears under “Items” and not “Devices.” My phone then proceeds to tell me my backpack and I are not together, but it was last at the Barbara Jordan Airport (apparently there was a name change?) until I tell it to stop.

Going through security I have to divest myself of hiking boots, cell phone, watch, money belt, pocket contents, and scarf as well as unpack my laptop. I feel like the poster child for “How Not to Get through TSA Checks Quickly.”

But I will need the boots (brought the poles this time, too) and they are big and heavy to pack. Scarves are versatile, and I feel better when my laptop is with me. Not to mention, as I just realized, I can do some work and make up some hours during this downtime. So I just moved to prime gate real estate, although the most uncomfortable.

Know why it’s so worn?
Here’s why!

I need to pee, but I’m not moving till it’s an emergency.

Laters!

My hostel is near the City Center. I wandered around getting my bearings but mostly just trying to stay up till at least 9:00 p.m. Here was dinner.

These were good but not what I expected. Drink is not Sangria but Tinto Verano

Tanti Auguri

Today was Veronica’s 27th birthday. We went on a hike to celebrate. I made tortilla and a strawberry cake. Well, actually, Stef bought a cake in three layers and I put strawberries in between. Then I made whipped cream to put on top.

Happy birthday, Veronica!

We saw such beautiful views. We went back to the dam because that was what Veronica wanted to see. But our hike started from the ten people live here village.

I took the wrong path and got lost. I figured it out when I hit the highway, so I turned around.

One thing I love about Spain
Verónica under the huge tree from our original excursion
The street over the dam is brick
Here are the stats for the tree
Our picnic
What we saw while eating
He had such attitude
I’d love a house like this
Pretty flower
Stef and Veronica
Calla lilies
I don’t normally take selfies, but…
Rose

Locked Out and the Consequences

So I am sorry to leave you guys hanging but I was getting very frustrated. Montse tried climbing the ladder and getting in the window but she couldn’t get it to open. She tried the credit card trick on the door, except she didn’t have a credit card but a thinner piece of plastic. (I don’t think it would have worked anyway; the lock was too substantial.) Eventually they broke a pane of glass on the window and opened it, and then someone (at a guess Carlos) climbed in and opened the door. I missed some of it; there comes a time when the best thing you can do is get out of the way. Eugenia missed almost ALL of it; she was asleep in the garden. Going out to the garden was the whole reason we were outside to begin with.

So apparently in trying to get the window open, Montse damaged it so it won’t completely close. (Either that or it was her fault we got locked out in the first place; I’m not completely sure.) Anyway, she and Stef were on the terrace and Stef said, “I am very upset with you!” and slammed, and I do mean SLAMMED the door. Montse said not quite in her face but almost. So she and Norbert have left.

This is Norbert. The note says, “Hello. I am Norbert. I sing for you, but you, what do you give me? Cauldrons! Hello, Norbert. I am Juanita. I would never give you cauldrons. You sing too pretty. I will miss you and your friend Montse. Keep singing

Yesterday Stef drove her to her house. She at first said she would be a long-distance consultant, but she has apparently changed her mind and withdrawn her support altogether. This is a minor problem with the Guardia Civil, the agency that manages the camino among other things. They had given Montse a certificate for the albergue, but it was in her name. Since she has withdrawn her support, Stef has lost the certificate. Since this is a donativo, it mostly means that each day Stef has pilgrims he has to go down to the Guardia Civil office and give them the register. I’m thinking if that gets to be enough of a pain for them they will give him a certificate in his own right. But they can’t stop him from hosting pilgrims because no one can tell you who can stay in your house. All they can do is keep him from charging a specific amount.

So that was our drama. We all went to Eugenia’s bar the day after it happened, and I told everyone this was my fault. I had Carlos translate on his phone because I hadn’t gotten on the bar’s WIFI yet. “I don’t look for drama,” I said. “It just finds me.” Eugenia laughed. “Drama buscando Juanita,” she chuckled. She laughed, but it’s true.

Today Stef and I went to Eugenia’s house to make empanadas. Eugenia is from Argentina, and I asked what was the difference between an Argentinian empanada and a Spanish one. No one could really tell me. I told Eugenia I wanted to try filling an empanada. (No one makes their own dough, Stef said.) The first one I made was decent. Here is the second one.

I gave up after this

Eugenia said she wasn’t a good cook, but she is. Here she is making an empanada.

Here they are all done.