



For the record, missing the bus is not the same as getting lost. I want to establish that clearly. What happened? I’ll get to it.
So last night I knew I wanted meat. My hotel is off a big square so there are multiple restaurants, including this one.

I thought very seriously about going in and telling them they would have to satisfy a Texan, but I decided against it. Nothing on the menu appealed enough to make the effort, and the odds were against it coming up to scratch.
Instead I went to the Italian restaurant. I ordered a cotoletta con prosciutto because it came with a salad instead of fries.

I ordered a glass of fruity white wine. I don’t know what the wine is when you do that, but omg, is it good.

I finished with a scoop of leche merengada ice cream (meringue milk.)

It has a faint citrus taste. It’s pretty good, but I’m not going to rush to have it again.
Afterwards I went to my room, called Mom, repacked my backpack, and took a bath (primary purpose for the hotel.) No, I didn’t take a picture of the tub. Or the room.
I had a huge breakfast at the hotel (eggs, bacon, toast with butter and jam, two kinds of cheese, a slice of lunch meat, a slice of ham, a croissant, and yogurt) and then did a 30 minute walk to the shopping mall.
They had an enormous Carrefour (think Walmart) and I bought three plain long sleeve t-shirts, a short sleeve t-shirt for sleeping (I could not resist the graphic,) a plaid button down shirt, a hoodie that zips, and a plastic rain jacket, all for less than 100 euros (about $110. No pics. Sorry.) Oh yeah, that also included two pair of footies, since while running around Stef’s place barefoot my feet got so dirty I sometimes left footprints in the bathroom, and a sleep mask shaped like a cat. I have a sleep mask, but it was just adorable.
Then I found a store where I bought Vital Proteins collagen, toothpaste, and nail clippers (I had some but I can’t find them.) So I am now all set.
Yes, I spent as much as an extra bag would have cost BUT I haven’t had the hassle of wrangling three bags. Two is enough; trust me. Especially since neither is packed with any regard to their weight, a fact I am highly cognizant of as I schlep them through Ponferrada.
Which bring me to missing the bus. Well, almost. I left my bags in the hotel to walk to El Rosal (the shopping mall,) and coming back I just had two bags, neither of them heavy. I sat in the hotel lobby and got one of them into my small bag, and I could have worn the jackets (I would have been boiling, but I could have done it,) but that collagen wasn’t going to fit anywhere, so I decided to keep the jackets in the bag too and temporarily have three bags. Perfectly fine when you’re taking a taxi.
You have a choice of two bus stops to get to Pieros, the main station or one by the University. The university one was closer to my hotel so I chose it.

I had the hotel call the taxi in plenty of time; it got to the stop at 2:53 for a 3:07 bus. Todo es bien.
3:07 comes and no bus. At 3:15 a bus stops on the other side of the street but it’s going the wrong way. Pieros is in the direction of the side I’m on; I checked it on Google Maps. Surely the taxi driver didn’t drop me on the wrong side of the street. That couldn’t have been my bus.
It was my bus.

30 minutes later no buses have come along. Well, okay, one does but it doesn’t even pretend to stop. I send a message to the hostel that is expecting me to arrive about now and let them know what’s happened. I start walking towards the big bus station. My pack is so heavy it is stressing my hip, and the strap of my shoulder bag is digging into my neck.
I decide I am not walking to the bus station; I am walking back to the hotel, which is much closer. I will sit in the lobby, charge my phone, and catch y’all up. Which is what I’m doing and now y’all are.
Praise and glory be; the WIFI on this bus actually is working for me! (Spoiler alert. I only thought it was working. Just got a notice of an international data charge.)

I am on my way to Ponferrada. I will stay in a hotel there tonight (I have a bathtub addiction) then go to Pieros and El Serbal y La Luna tomorrow afternoon.
I’m planning on shopping for some warm clothes while there, but I have no idea where they are going to go. My backpack is full, and I even left some clothes at Stef’s place. Snuck ‘em in to the stacks of summer clothes other pilgrims left. (Shouldn’t have asked me to organize the clothes there, Stef.) I feel a little less guilt because my black turtleneck WASN’T there; another pilgrim took it. Hopefully they will take some of these too.
I did remember to get my fan this time, but goodness, that thing is not as big as a pair of shorts and three shirts, even if they are camisoles. I will try and shop (and pack) judiciously or I’m going to be lugging three bags instead of two.
I chose to walk from the bus station to the hotel. 20 minutes. Big mistake. I did not pack like a pilgrim who has to carry their backpack.

At the top of the stairs I met a very sweet lady who helped carry my bag to the hotel.

At first she thought I was a pilgrim. Completely understandable. Then I think she wanted me to stay at her place. I’m not sure; she only spoke Spanish. Once we found my hotel (We walked right past it; yes, I managed to get lost even accompanied by a local) I offered to buy her a coffee, but instead of following me to the restaurant she wandered off. At least my Spanish was good enough to communicate in a limited way.
Now I’m taking a brief rest before going shopping, but I can’t take too long. The stores close at 8:30 or 9.
My friend Montse has an albergue on the Camino del Norte. I took the bus from Pola to Tineo to Oviedo to Vsllaviciosa (a two day trip) and she picked me up on her scooter in Villaviciosa.

Montse lives ten minutes from the beach, so my second day with her I took the bus there. There was a little excitement because I forgot I needed a mask, and had to run back to get one.

I also flagged down the wrong bus. But I eventually made it here.
I’ve heard beaches in Spain are topless. I am here to tell you it’s true. Here’s a picture for proof.

The first topless woman I saw was lying face down on her towel. Well, women in the states do that. But then as I walked around, scoping things out, a woman walked by with everything up top swinging free. All righty, then. The vast majority cover though. Out of the hundreds of women here, I counted twelve who were going topless. I briefly, very briefly, considered making it thirteen, but decided against it.
For one thing, black leggings and hiking boots don’t really go with nothing on from the waist up. (Is it awful that the first thing offended was my fashion sense?) Two, women my age usually cover. I guess it’s because no one wants to see boobs rub a belly button. Three, I didn’t have any sunscreen, and sunburned breasts did not appeal. And four, I’m an American. A southern American at that. No matter what impulses flit across our minds, going topless is just not something we do. I wanted a nice relaxing time at the beach. Exposing myself would not have contributed to my relaxation.
So instead I walked around, then got a bocadillo (sandwich) and relaxed in the shade. For the first time, I feel on vacation.


Montse was telling me that the Camino Primitivo is popular in the fall because of the leaves. And I suddenly realized, I’m going to see the fall colors! For the first time in 58 years. I don’t have to go to New England. I’m on the same parallel. I’m excited!
Montse has each guest put a pin in the map for where they are from.


The sea was very beautiful, as the sea always is.





Now I am back in Pola, and once again “Drama buscando Juanita.” But that’s a post for another time.
Last night Stef got a call from Luz-Dary, who now lives in Cangas del Narcea near her daughter, Jessica. They celebrated Luz-Dary’s birthday in Oviedo and somehow missed the bus back. So Stef and I headed out at 10 pm to drive an hour and a half to Oviedo, then an hour to Cangas, then a half hour back to Pola. We got back a little after 1:30 am.
On the way back Luz-Dary asked if I remembered playing games in the kitchen and if we still played. I said, “No. Mucho trabajo por los peregrinos. Cocino, limpio, duermo. Y repito.” And that’s why I haven’t been posting. I’ve been cooking for fifteen people. And helping clean and do laundry and…
Today there was a concert in the square. The video of couples dancing won’t upload even though I’m on WiFi. I’ll try again later.
I left early so I could make lunch, but not as early as Ren & Kana. Stef and Yolanda stayed till the end. I made a lentil stew which apparently didn’t float Ren’s boat; they made themselves a quesadilla instead. But they politely said, “I’m not really hungry,” instead of “That looks awful.” (It didn’t, btw. But that’s okay; they don’t have to like everything I cook.)
Tonight Kana is making Japanese food (she’s Japanese) and there are only two pilgrims. So we basically have a night off and I’m missing it.
Tonight I am in Tineo, once again staying at the Palacio de Meras. I’m traveling to Villaviciosa tomorrow to visit Montse for her birthday. And I am eating meat!

That’s a chicken burger. I almost ate on the terrace across the street instead of the hotel bar, but there’s a chill in the air. I refuse to be cold before I have to be!
Tomorrow I will catch the bus to Oviedo then to Villaviciosa. I don’t know where Montse’s place is, but I’m sure I can find it. I’m looking forward to seeing her.
My room isn’t as nice as last time, but it has the most important thing.

It is no longer 95 here. Right now it is 67, and it will get down to 60. Stef still has some of the clothes I left, which I hope will include the black turtleneck. If it’s here, I’m wearing it to El Serbal.
I tried to fit everything for this trip into a small bag, which unfortunately could not accommodate my ball. It’s okay. I brought my computer and I’ll check into work and maybe watch some TV. And of course, enjoy the bathtub.
So now you guys are caught up. Laters.
Yesterday I discovered that the $30 I had taken out in the US was in my bag, so I stopped and changed it. ($30 in, 21 euros out, what a deal! 😟) However, thank goodness I did because the money I transferred to my Schwab card hasn’t shown up yet, and I would have found myself schlepping my backpack and carryon for the 45 minute walk to the bus station if I hadn’t.
As it was I took a nice taxi. I had wondered where to get one, but when I went out yesterday to the ATM to get the money that wasn’t available, I saw a lot of taxis stopped in a circular area. It was less than a quarter mile from my hotel. I’m telling you guys, God takes care of me. Not sure why, but he does.
I had a moment of panic when I thought I was in the wrong bus station; I knew I wasn’t but you know how fear can sometimes be totally irrational. Information assured me I was in the right place and told me my platform.
Now I am sitting in my nice bus waiting to head out.

I just witnessed a “vigorous discussion” over a seat. That wasn’t unexpected. What was unexpected was that nobody ended up sitting there. Both disputed seats, empty. Why the discussion then?
The bus from Madrid was 30 minutes late, causing me to miss my connection. Fortunately with my international plan I could let Stef know so he didn’t waste time in Cangas. I have an hour to kill in the bus station in Oviedo. I could feed the pigeons, I guess.

However this sandwich has been waiting for me for six hours. Time to put it out of its misery.

There were some crumbs left, so the pigeon got some

The trip was uneventful. Many of the people I knew are gone: Eugenia, Luz-Dary, and of course Carlos, Montse, and Veronica. Dinner was with the pilgrims, a group of four young Italian men. All handsome. All doctors.
I felt like I was in a rom-com, and any minute this Jewish-sounding voice was going to come out of me saying, “Let me tell ya about my doytah; she’s a noice goil, a chef, even…
Relax, Sarah, I didn’t say anything. You have a boyfriend anyway.
We sat by the fire and caught up on each other’s lives; at least Stef is caught up on mine. And now I’m going to sleep. Night, Mom, I’ll call tomorrow.
I’m trying to post only once a day, as I don’t want to overload you guys. Since yesterday was busking, today will include last night’s dinner. OMG, y’all.
I was wandering around with my groceries, trying to decide on a place, when a waiter invited me to sit and have a drink. I ordered a tinto verano (It was HUGE) that came with slices of Parmesan cheese. (They were on the empty plate.) I sat awhile, then ordered a salad.
Endive, radicchio, goat cheese, caramelizad pears, walnuts, pineapple…oh!…It was sweet, salty, crunchy, smooth…all the complexity of tastes I love. Gaze upon it.

I didn’t take a picture of the fried Gouda cheese sticks I got at McDonald’s, but I did take a selfie with my mango ice cream.

Yesterday was about getting my phone sorted out (can’t get a Spanish SIM card till my contract is up in fourteen months. HOWEVER, my phone has dual chip capability, so when it is I can get a Spanish SIM card and have a US number and a Spanish one, all in the same phone) and my bus tickets. I now have a discounted international plan with Verizon (three months for the price of two,) and tickets to Cangas del Narcea, where Stef will pick me up.
I ate too much for my Ambien to work well last night, so I’m a little short on sleep, but I’m excited about today. Mom, Aaron, this is what your birthday money bought me.
Here I am waiting on the bus to Toledo.

Toledo is one of the most ancient cities in Spain, and one in which Christians, Jews, and Muslims have co-existed for almost 1,000 years. Witness the Catholic church with Muslim-influenced architecture.

The terrain around the city is quite hilly, as you can see here.



I had forgotten that Toledo is known for its sword-making. We stopped at a factory where they gave a small demonstration .
Z, let me show you the souvenir you aren’t getting.

There is a decorative technique called Damascene, which involves working gold thread into other metals.
Mom & Sarah, you might be getting some.
This might surprise you, unless you know that the armor for The Lord of the Rings was made here in Toledo. I didn’t till today.

I was really tempted by the LOTR jewelry, but I was pretty sure I couldn’t afford it.
Now I’m sitting sipping more tinto verano (literally “summer wine.” It’s red wine and a citrus soda) trying to decide between a pork bocadillo and tortilla.
I got neither. The kitchen wasn’t open. But the waitress gave me this.

As I sat sipping I realized my battery was at 22%. Not enough for blogging and pictures and navigation. So blogging went away first. Then pictures, because you guys know, navigation is THE MOST IMPORTANT THING.
I did not want the thing I thought happened at the sword factory…

…to happen in reality.
So I didn’t tour any of the sites on my own, like the cathedral, mosque, or synagogue. I may do them another time. Instead I did this!

I talked with the woman in front of me, as best we could with each of our limited languages, and I took a video of her. So we took a picture together.

I did finally get something to eat.

There is a lot of busking in Spain. I actually saw this guy walking in, but I had to keep up with the tour.
I was about out of battery, but I knew how to get to the bus from there so I risked a few seconds.
I took this video first.
After I found the bus (or more accurately, where it was going to be) I went back in town and got a Coke Zero and some water from McDonald’s and used their facilities. My phone was completely dead by that point so I got to the meeting place way early. I was not missing that bus!
In that same spirit, I got off the bus at the first stop, Gran Via, instead of the second stop, Fountain of Neptune, where I got on. I knew how to get back to my hotel from the Gran Via. I wasn’t so sure about the fountain.
When I got back the maid had emptied the trash and given me clean towels. I’ve always been here when she’s done her cleaning before. Now I’m debating between going out or eating the pasta salad I bought yesterday. I think the salad’s gonna win.

I figured out why no videos were uploading. I had maxed out my free space. Since I want to keep posting, I bought the next level up. I figure it will take me a year or so to max it out. It took me five years the last time. But now my address has changed. WordPress is no longer at the end. Just “Travelsandadventureswithjane.com” The old address still works though; I tested it.
And no, I don’t know why I didn’t get the opera singers’ faces. I thought I had. I also don’t know why the photo of Mickey Mouse is so quick. I’m still a newbie with the editing program I got.
I didn’t do a whole lot today, but tomorrow I’m going to Toledo. Pictures and videos will ensue, of course.
Sorry for not posting yesterday, guys. With all the delays I ended up traveling just over 24 hours, and I didn’t really sleep on the plane. I did manage to stay up until after 9:00 p.m. so today, after sleeping almost twelve hours, I feel pretty normal.
I haven’t gotten a lot done today. I laid in bed and played on my phone, then did some exercises. I didn’t get out till after 1:00 p.m. I decided to go to the San Miguel Market for lunch. I spent 35 Euros! Here are the pictures.

The San Miguel Market is famous for having tapas from all over Spain. Some I did not try because the cost was too much (I’m looking at you, fourteen euro lobster taco) But I got to try a lot of things.








On the way I passed a shop where I can get a Spanish SIM card, but I have to talk to Verizon about switching my current card to a digital one so I can get a physical card for Spain. Then I will be able to have a Spanish number and a US number on the same phone. And I will able to find myself again if I get lost. Like I did today.
You guys knew I would.
Although a Spanish SIM card wouldn’t have helped me today, because today my phone died. I spent $10 on a travel pass yesterday, and $10 more today, so I actually had a map until the phone went kaput. But while the card won’t solve power problems, it was really inconvenient for my phone to only work on WIFI last time. I don’t want that this time. I’ll let you guys know how it all works out tomorrow.
After wine and wandering around in the sun for an extra hour, I was so depleted I took a nap when I finally found my hostel. I got out again around 7:00 p.m. I walked to a hat store that was supposed to close at 8:00 p.m. but they were finishing up the people already in there and not letting anyone new in. So instead I went grocery shopping, because my room, small though it is, has a refrigerator.

All of that plus a bottle of caffeine-free Coke Zero was less than eleven euros. Tomorrow I hope to get a hat and my phone sorted out, and Sunday I hope to take a tour to Toledo. I will also try and visit one of the gardens tomorrow if I can take the heat. I’ll probably be okay if I don’t drink wine.
Well, guys, I’m off again.

I’m sitting outside my gate waiting for my flight, which is in six hours. I was supposed to fly out at 2:40 p.m. but the flight was delayed to 3:49 p.m. That would have meant missing my connection in Dallas. So I was changed to a different flight, which will leave here at 6:44 p.m. and Dallas at 9:25 p.m. I will get to Madrid at 2 p.m. on the 28th. Thank God I have Ambien.
Of course, since this is ME, there was a bobble. (And no, it did not involve getting lost.) Sarah and I leave a half hour later than we mean to, but I still have 3.5 hours after I arrive so I’m fine. At the airport I get out and she says, “Do you have everything?” Thinking in terms of Brenham, I say, “Well, if I don’t I’m screwed.” She hands me some disposable masks I want just in case and I stuff them in my back pocket. Where I usually put my cell phone.
You guys see where I’m going with this.
We hug goodbye, I walk through the doors, and realize what I’ve done. I borrow a stranger’s phone and call her number, which I fortunately know. No answer. Then I call myself, thinking it’ll show up in the car display.
My message instantly reminds me I silence unknown callers.
So I call Mom. I actually know her number too. Both of them. ( Don’t be too impressed; the amount of phone numbers I’ve memorized is less than ten.) No answer. By this time I’ve figured out what having my Apple Watch MEANS, so I thank the man, give him back his phone and call Mom again. This time she answers. She tells me she called me and asked Sarah why she was answering my phone, but Sarah had assumed she was still close enough to me for the car to pick me up. She calls Sarah to tell her to turn around. Sarah comes back and gives me my phone.
I consider self-checking in, but thank goodness I don’t because it takes the agent a good ten minutes to get me sorted out. In the meantime, the AirTag Mom bought for my backpack, that I could have SWORN I set up last night, isn’t showing up on my list of devices. I’m trying to pair and it just won’t. So I check the bag knowing I’m just going to have to take its arrival on faith.
I’m in the security line when I realize it appears under “Items” and not “Devices.” My phone then proceeds to tell me my backpack and I are not together, but it was last at the Barbara Jordan Airport (apparently there was a name change?) until I tell it to stop.
Going through security I have to divest myself of hiking boots, cell phone, watch, money belt, pocket contents, and scarf as well as unpack my laptop. I feel like the poster child for “How Not to Get through TSA Checks Quickly.”
But I will need the boots (brought the poles this time, too) and they are big and heavy to pack. Scarves are versatile, and I feel better when my laptop is with me. Not to mention, as I just realized, I can do some work and make up some hours during this downtime. So I just moved to prime gate real estate, although the most uncomfortable.


I need to pee, but I’m not moving till it’s an emergency.
Laters!
My hostel is near the City Center. I wandered around getting my bearings but mostly just trying to stay up till at least 9:00 p.m. Here was dinner.
